As a Ruby Star Maker, I recently received fabric from the new Verbena line by Jen Hewett for Ruby Star Society, which I decided to make into an Orla dress by French Navy (free pattern!).
(See more photos at the end of the post.)
Size / View:
XS at the neck graded to S at the bust graded to M at the waist.
For reference, my measurements are:
- Bust: 34.5"
- High Bust: 32.5"
- Waist: 29"
- Hip: 37.5"
- Height: 5' 0"
Fabric:
Adjustments / Construction:
- Instead of doing a bodice muslin straight away, I tried to make adjustments based off my traced pattern, then made a muslin. This didn't actually work as well as I thought, and I ended up doing 2 bodice muslins with incremental adjustments and several re-traced patterns after adjustments (5 versions in all). So next time, I'd probably start with a muslin right off the bat like I have in the past.
- After all the adjustments I tried, I ended up keeping the same darts as before, except on the front darts, lowering the point by 1-5/8".
- Since the instructions were not illustrated step-by-step, I went looking for a sew-along to help me visually follow each step, and found this YouTube video helpful: How to Sew a Zipper Back Dress (using French Navy - Orla dress)
- I wanted to take off the sleeves, but I didn't want to necessarily end up with a sleeveless dress, so I landed on a ruffle sleeve and found this free ruffle sleeve hack and pattern: Gaïa – Ruffled shoulders.
- I also researched hacks that others made to the Orla dress, and referenced this blog post to remove the sleeves from the pattern: Another Sleeveless Orla - Drafting Tutorial.
- Shortened straps 0.75", and also lowered the bottom of the arm hole by 0.75" as well to keep the size of the arm hole the same.
- Took out 0.25" from the center back at the neckline (basically cut away a wedge).
- Used S for the gathered skirt pieces and shortened 2" since the pattern was drafted for a height of 5' 7".
- Added in-seam pockets anchored at the waist, and followed a tutorial from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Olive Sewalong // Pockets and Skirt) using a pocket pattern from Cashmerette (Pocket Time! Add Pockets to the Cashmerette Turner Dress).
Likes:
- Semi-fitted bodice (after I got the right dart adjustments figured out, to the best of my knowledge).
- I could see this being one of those tried-and-true basic dresses that is very hackable.
Next Time:
- Take out 0.25" from the center front at the neckline.
- Try a rayon, which has more drape than cotton.
- Add more ease to the arm hole in the back. It's a little tight, though still wearable. Possibly a softer fabric (like rayon) would help with this too.
