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Etty Cami by Tammy Handmade

Thursday, October 27, 2022

I had about a 1-yard cut of this dark navy Reverie fabric from Ruby Star Society, which I received as a Ruby Star Maker. I used it to make a Tammy Handmade Etty camisole. The Etty cami is a free pattern and the scallop neckline is what caught my eye!


(See more photos at the end of the post.)

Size / View:

Size 8 bust graded to size 6 waist. I relied more on the finished garment measures and my desired ease to decide what size to make.

For reference, my measurements are:
  • Bust: 34.5"
  • High Bust: 32.5"
  • Waist: 29"
  • Hip: 37.5"
  • Height: 5' 0"

Fabric:

Reverie by Melody Miller from the Ruby Star Society, 100% cotton.

Adjustments / Construction:

  • Serge sides and bottom hems of all the pieces before sewing, as well as the top of the back pieces
  • Any raw edge that I couldn't serge, I used Fray Check. I actually went a little heavy handed at the center neckline, and Fray Check does not dry clear, so I had to sew the scallop a little deeper to hide that . . .
  • Invisible zipper on the side, following some great instructions from Doina Alexei (How to sew an invisible zipper into a seam (with lining) | How to sew and seal lining edges to the zipper and hem of a blouse). I did this because I wanted the cami to be more form fitting, but I knew I wouldn't be able to fit the cami over my head.
  • Fully lined. I skipped understitching because I wanted it to potentially be reversible.
  • Reversible straps - cut 1-1/8" width strips instead of the pattern piece width (3/8" strap width and seam allowances on both sides)
  • Shortened straps by 1-1/2", although I may go back and add 1/4" or 1/2" length back after wearing the cami out
  • Instead of sewing all four sides together per Step 8 in the instructions, I sewed the lining and the outer fabric separately
  • Before stitching the sides together, I pinned the seam allowance and tried it on. I was worried the scallop neckline would gape too much, but I decided to take the sides in a little more and that helped. I ended up doing 5/8" seam allowance at the bust graded to a 3/4" seam allowance at the waist (instead of 1/2" seam allowance all around). This could possibly because cotton is stiffer.
  • I ended up trimming about 1/4" off the front hems in order to even them out with the back hems. I'm not sure why it was a little off. (Fabric choice? Sewist error?)

Likes:

  • Scalloped neckline
  • Simple back, which is easy to sew

Next Time:

  • Try a rayon for the drape (would still need a side zip though)
  • Try a knit and skip the side zip